Video Transcript: FYRLYT LUXSIS 5000 review by Jamie Benaud
NOTE: 22/10/25: FYRLYT LUXSIS 5000 depicted in video are GEN 1.0 and now been updated to feature a tempered borosilicate glass lens with a billet machined lens bezel. The light output remains the same.
FYRLYT LUXSIS 5000 DRIVING LIGHT PAGE
G'day and welcome back to the project 200 video series. Today I'll be performing a serious upgrade to the 200's lighting, fitting a set of driving lights plus a globe upgrade for the standard headlights.
The driving lights I'll be installing are from FYRLYT, using a 150-watt, 5000-Lumen Xenophot globe. The lights are beautifully engineered and full of great ideas. They're fully water-sealed but have a Gore-Tex breather to allow for heat expansion. Changing from a spot to a spread beam is a simple push and turn of the Billet alloy globe holder, while the globe is replaceable without any tools by completely removing the same fitting.
At this point, you might be wondering why I've gone with halogen driving lights rather than HID or LED. Simple: these lights deliver the same performance as a top-of-the-range 50-watt HID for about half the price, and unlike HID, you don't have to wait 30 seconds for them to warm up to full brightness.
For the headlights, I'm going with a mild upgrade to Osram Night Breaker Unlimited replacement globes. The Night Breakers deliver more light than the standard globes without using any more power, but it is worth noting that they deliver the greatest benefit in projector-type lights, such as those fitted to the VX and Sahara, rather than the reflector lights fitted to the GXL. The reason I'm avoiding HID for the headlights is a basic one: without headlight washers and automatic level adjustment, it is illegal to fit HID headlight upgrades in Australia.
Because of the high wattage of the FYRLYTs, it's very important to use at least 10-gauge wire for the wires from the battery to the relay and from the relay out to the lights. Begin by soldering the supplied light connectors onto the cable to the relay. Insulate with heat shrink tube and split tubing before running the wire back to your relay location, ensuring that it's well secured to prevent shorts. Next, tap into the Cruiser's high beam wire at the back of the headlight using light-duty cable and run the other end through the firewall to the dash switch.
While you have the battery removed, take the opportunity to install the upgraded Nightbreaker Unlimited headlight globes. The globes use a bayonet-type mounting system, so just turn and pull to remove. Then clip the new globes onto the wiring loom and fit them back into the headlights.
Moving into the vehicle, there's a huge variety of dash switches available, which now include some that look like the factory 200 series switches. But for consistency with previous installs, I'm using a Carling switch from mudstuff.co.uk. They fit into the Cruiser's blank slots with some minor modifications.
Connect the wire you've run from high beam to the power-in terminal of your switch, then run another light-duty cable from the switch's power-out terminal through the firewall to your relay location.
I'm using stackable relay blocks which allow you to neatly connect more relays as more accessories are added. They can be secured using an existing bolt in the inner guard just behind the air box, and they work with any quality relay. The relay is wired as follows: pin 30 is power in from the battery, pin 87 is power out to the lights, pin 86 goes to Earth, and pin 85 is the tripwire coming from the switch.
For safety, ensure you fuse the supply to the relay. I'm using a 30 amp fuse in my accessory fuse box.
With the wiring complete, it's time to mount the FYRLYTs to the bull bar. Begin by securing the aluminum base firmly, but not so firmly that the lights can't be adjusted. You can then mount the lights themselves to the bases using the provided Allen key bolts. Again, ensure they're firm but still allowing for some adjustment.
With the wiring and mounting complete, head out to a quiet, straight road and properly adjust the aim of the FYRLYTs. You can then fully tighten all the mounting bolts.
So you can see what a huge difference improved lighting can make, I've driven the same road filming the performance of the standard high beam and compared it to Night Breaker Unlimited high beam plus the FYRLYTs on both wide and spot settings.
You can see that the Night Breaker Unlimiteds provide a modest improvement over the standard high beam, giving a whiter light and providing slightly longer range.
The FYRLYTs on both wide and spot settings provide a massive increase in both intensity and range. They absolutely bathe the road ahead in light, and it's hard to imagine anyone requiring brighter lights than these. Certainly on roads with signage, anything brighter would cause distraction from the reflection coming off the signs.
If we compare the lights with the videos zoomed to a hundred percent, the range of each becomes apparent. The FYRLYTs On Spot are illuminating the road about 800 meters ahead where those trees are, but the light is very focused. On the wide setting, which is really just a slightly larger spot, range is only reduced by about 50 meters, but the sides of the road are certainly better illuminated, which makes this the setting I prefer.
With the constant threat of animal strikes, driving at night on country roads can be pretty hazardous, but I just got a whole lot safer thanks to the incredible improvement from the FYRLYTs and the Night Breaker headlight upgrade.
I hope you enjoyed the installation and comparison. Please take a look at the article at https://www.google.com/search?q=project200.com.au for more information, particularly on my reasons for choosing halogen over HID or LED. See you next time.
Thanks for watching. There's plenty more information, including downloadable images from the testing, on the Australian images website.